Stop all water use in the house immediately — running more water makes the backup worse fast. Don't flush, run laundry, or use showers. Call us. Active sewage backups are dispatched as emergencies.
Why we camera first, dig second
The biggest mistake homeowners make with sewer problems is hiring whoever shows up willing to start digging. That's how a $1,500 spot repair turns into a $9,000 full-line replacement that wasn't needed. Or worse, a $9,000 replacement that doesn't actually fix the recurring problem because the real issue was further upstream.
Every honest sewer diagnosis starts with a sewer camera. We push a waterproof camera on a flexible rod down your line from the cleanout and watch the inside of the pipe on a monitor. You watch with us. We mark where the camera is using a locator on the surface, so you'll know exactly where any problem is.
Twenty minutes of camera work tells us:
- Whether the line is structurally sound or failing
- Whether the material is clay, cast iron, Orangeburg, PVC, or ABS
- Where blockages, roots, bellies, or cracks are — within a few feet
- Whether you need spot repair, lining, or full replacement
What we actually do
Sewer camera inspection — $245–$295
The diagnostic step. We provide the recording so you have it for your records, for an insurance claim, or to get a second opinion. Camera fee is waived if you bundle with $500+ in same-day repair work.
Hydro jetting — $485–$850
If the camera shows roots, grease, or scale buildup but the pipe is structurally sound, hydro jetting cleans the line back to bare pipe. Annual maintenance jetting on a root-intruded line costs less than ongoing snaking. Read more about hydro jetting →
Spot repair — $1,500–$3,500
When the camera shows one bad joint, one collapsed section, or one root intrusion point, we dig only that spot, replace 2–4 feet of pipe, and refill. Best option when the rest of the line is in good shape.
Trenchless pipe lining (CIPP) — $4,500–$9,500
The right answer when the pipe is structurally OK but riddled with cracks, joints, or root intrusion at multiple points. We access through cleanouts (or one small access pit if no cleanout exists), pull a resin-saturated felt liner through the existing pipe, inflate it to push it against the walls, and cure it in place with hot water or steam. Result: a smooth, joint-free, root-proof pipe inside your old pipe. Lifespan: 50+ years.
Trenchless is dramatically cheaper than full replacement when it's viable — and your yard, driveway, and landscaping stay intact. We use it whenever the camera shows the underlying pipe can support a liner.
Pipe bursting — $5,500–$11,000
For pipes that have collapsed in sections or where the old pipe needs to be replaced rather than relined, pipe bursting pulls a new HDPE pipe through the path of the old one, bursting the old pipe outward. Two small access pits, no full-yard trench. Good middle ground between lining and full dig-and-replace.
Traditional dig-and-replace — $6,000–$15,000+
Sometimes there's no other choice — pipe is collapsed, runs at the wrong slope, was installed at the wrong depth, or your line is so far gone that it can't be lined or burst. We dig, remove the old pipe, install new PVC, backfill, and replace any landscaping or hardscaping we disturbed. Cost depends heavily on length, depth, what's above the line (driveway? big tree? deck?), and how far the run is.
What it actually costs (full breakdown)
Diagnostic & cleaning
- Sewer camera inspection: $245–$295
- Camera + locate + recording: $345–$425
- Hydro jetting (main line): $485–$650
- Hydro jetting with root cutting: $585–$850
Repair & replacement
- Spot repair (2–4 ft dig): $1,500–$3,500
- Cleanout installation: $650–$1,200
- Trenchless pipe lining: $4,500–$9,500 ($110–$180 per linear foot)
- Pipe bursting: $5,500–$11,000
- Full dig-and-replace (60 ft typical): $6,000–$15,000+
Variables that move the price within these ranges: length of run, depth (3 ft vs 8 ft is a big difference), what's above the line (sod, concrete driveway, mature tree), connection to city tap, and any code updates required.
How to tell if you have a sewer line problem
The line itself is buried under your yard, so problems show up indirectly. Watch for:
- Multiple drains backing up at once — water comes up in tub when you flush, washing machine drains into the kitchen sink
- Gurgling sounds from drains — air trapped in a partially blocked line
- Sewage smell in the yard or basement
- Soft, spongy, or unusually green patches of lawn — sewage leaking out feeds the grass
- Frequent main-line clogs — more than once a year is a problem, not a coincidence
- Sinkhole or depression forming over the line — pipe has collapsed and soil is washing into it
- Slow drains throughout the house — partial main-line blockage
- Foundation or yard cracks parallel to the sewer line path
The OKC-specific sewer story
If your house was built before 1975, your sewer line is probably clay tile or cast iron. Clay tile fails at the joints — roots find their way in and slowly destroy the line over decades. Cast iron rusts from the inside, scales up, and eventually develops holes in the bottom.
Homes built 1955–1972 sometimes have Orangeburg pipe — basically tar-impregnated cardboard. It was the cheap option at the time. It fails. If you have Orangeburg, you don't have years left, you have months. Replace it before it collapses.
Homes from 1975 forward usually have PVC, which lasts 80–100+ years and is largely root-resistant. If you've got PVC and a sewer problem, it's almost always a blockage, a belly from settled soil, or a damaged section — not material failure.
The Oklahoma soil problem
Our clay-heavy soil expands when wet and contracts when dry. Over decades, sewer lines installed at the right depth and slope can develop bellies (low spots where waste pools instead of flowing). A belly is the #1 cause of recurring backups in newer Moore and OKC homes with PVC lines. Camera inspection identifies them clearly. Some bellies can be left alone with occasional jetting; severe ones need section replacement at the proper slope.
FAQ — Sewer line work in OKC
Costs vary enormously by scope. Camera inspection: $245–$295. Spot repair: $1,500–$3,500. Trenchless lining: $4,500–$9,500. Full replacement: $6,000–$15,000+. We camera the line before quoting any major work so the price matches reality.
If you have recurring drain backups, are buying a home over 30 years old, or have mature trees near your sewer lateral — yes. A camera ($245–$295) is the only honest way to know what's actually happening underground. We won't recommend big repair work without one.
Trenchless sewer repair uses cured-in-place pipe (CIPP) lining or pipe bursting to replace your sewer line without digging up the whole yard. We access through existing cleanouts or a small access pit. The new pipe forms inside the old one. Cost runs $4,500–$9,500 versus $8,000–$15,000+ for dig-and-replace.
Generally no — standard policies exclude sewer line repair caused by wear, age, root intrusion, or ground movement. Some carriers offer a separate sewer line endorsement for around $50/year. If you have one, file. If you don't, plan to pay out of pocket. Damage from a backup inside the house may be covered separately.
Trenchless lining: typically 1 day. Pipe bursting: 1–2 days. Traditional dig-and-replace: 2–4 days depending on length, depth, and what's above the line. We can usually keep water service running during the work, but you'll be without sewer service for part of each work day.
Yes. Tree roots find any joint or crack in your sewer line, grow through it seeking moisture, and over years expand inside the pipe until they block flow or break the pipe outright. Older clay tile, cast iron, and Orangeburg lines are especially vulnerable. PVC is much more resistant but not immune.
Call the family
Sewer work is expensive and stressful. We make it less stressful by showing you what's actually wrong, explaining your real options, and never quoting bigger than the situation requires.