Whole-home repiping — replace failing plumbing once, properly.

When repiping is the right answer

Most homeowners don't think about their water supply lines until something fails — and then they think about it constantly. The honest question is whether to keep fixing leaks one at a time or replace the whole system once.

You almost certainly need a repipe if:

• Your home has polybutylene supply lines (gray plastic, common in homes built 1985–1996) — these are subject to class-action settlement because chlorine in municipal water makes them brittle
• Your home has galvanized steel supply lines (common in homes built before 1970) — they rust from the inside, restrict flow, and fail at joints
• Your home has Kitec or FlowGuard CPVC with multiple failures
• You've had 3+ leaks in 5 years — pipes don't usually fail randomly, they fail systemically
• Your water has rust color or visible debris consistently
• You've had a slab leak repair on copper pipe — once the copper has failed once, the rest is failing too

You might need a repipe if:

• Your home was built before 1980 and has the original supply lines
• Water pressure has slowly degraded over years (galvanized buildup)
• You're seeing green or blue staining at fixtures (copper corrosion)
• Multiple fixtures have low flow despite clear aerators

You probably don't need a repipe if:

• Your home is post-2000 and has PEX (the modern standard)
• You've had one or two isolated leaks tied to specific issues (frozen pipe, fixture failure, etc.) and the rest of the system tests fine
• Your copper is in good condition and you have only a single localized problem area

What pipe material we recommend (and why)

PEX — our default for most OKC repipes

Cross-linked polyethylene tubing. Flexible, freeze-resistant (expands rather than bursting), corrosion-proof, faster to install. The dominant pipe material in new construction since 2010, and for good reason. We typically use PEX-A (Uponor or Rehau brand) for residential repipes.

Pros: Lower cost than copper (about 40% less installed), faster install means less time without water, no soldering near framing, naturally insulating (less condensation, less heat loss), bends around obstacles without 90° fittings.

Cons: Should be protected from sunlight during installation (UV degrades it over time, but inside walls this is moot), some early PEX brands had fitting failures (modern fittings are dramatically better).

Lifespan: 50+ years per manufacturer testing; warranty 25 years.

Copper — premium choice for some homes

Type L copper, soldered or press-fit. The historical gold standard for residential plumbing.

Pros: 100+ year track record. Strong resale value signal. Looks great in exposed runs (utility rooms, mechanical closets). Bacteriostatic (slight antibacterial property).

Cons: 40-60% more expensive than PEX. Vulnerable to pinhole leaks where municipal water is acidic (some OKC neighborhoods have this issue). Susceptible to galvanic corrosion if mixed with dissimilar metals. Freezes will burst it (PEX would expand). Slower install.

When we recommend copper: Homes where exposed runs are visible (cabin-style ceilings, utility rooms), high-end homes where resale signaling matters, or homeowners who specifically want copper.

What we won't install

Galvanized (obsolete). Polybutylene (failed material). Kitec (recalled). CPVC for whole-home (acceptable but inferior to PEX). Any "lifetime warranty" off-brand PEX from online retailers.

What it costs

Whole-home PEX repipe

• Single-story, 1,200–1,500 sq ft, 2 bath: $4,500–$6,500
• Single-story, 1,500–2,000 sq ft, 2–3 bath: $5,500–$8,000
• Single-story, 2,000–2,800 sq ft, 3 bath: $7,000–$9,500
• Two-story, 1,800–2,500 sq ft, 2.5–3 bath: $7,500–$11,500
• Two-story, 2,500–3,500 sq ft, 3–4 bath: $9,500–$14,500

Whole-home copper repipe

• Add 40–60% to the PEX numbers above
• Single-story, 1,500–2,000 sq ft: $8,500–$12,500
• Two-story, 2,500–3,500 sq ft: $14,000–$22,000

What's included in our repipe pricing

• All hot and cold supply lines from main shut-off to every fixture
• New shut-off valves at every fixture
• New main shut-off (if existing is corroded or non-functional)
• Drywall access cuts and patching (taping, mudding, sanding — not texture or paint)
• Pressure test and chlorination of new lines
• City inspection coordination and sign-off
• 1-year labor warranty + 25-year manufacturer warranty on pipe

What's not included

• Final drywall texture and paint matching (typically $400–$900 for a separate painter)
• Tile or flooring work where access required removal of permanent finishes
• Drain or sewer line replacement (that's a separate service)
• Fixture replacement (we can do this for additional charge)
• Water softener install (often a smart add-on — see below)

How a whole-home repipe actually goes

Before we start (1–2 weeks ahead)

1. Free in-home assessment — we walk every fixture, map current pipe routing, identify access challenges, write a detailed quote.
2. You approve, we order materials.
3. You prep — clear cabinets under sinks, move furniture from walls we'll access, plan to use a friend's shower if it's a 2+ day job.

Day 1: Layout and rough-in

We map and cut access points (typically 6–12 small cuts, sized like an electrical outlet at fixtures, plus 2–4 larger cuts at junctions). New PEX is run through attic and walls, leaving the old pipes in place. Water service stays on through the old system.

Day 2: Complete new system and tie-in

New lines connected to each fixture. New shut-off valves installed. Old pipes disconnected. New system pressure-tested and chlorinated. Water service restored through the new lines. Old pipes left in walls (removing them adds days of demo for no functional benefit).

Day 3: Drywall and inspection

All access points patched — taped, mudded, sanded ready for paint. City inspector visits and signs off. Final walkthrough with you.

Day 4 if needed: Punch list

Any minor adjustments, additional fixture work, or finish details.

The repipe + softener combo (worth considering)

When we're doing a whole-home repipe, it's the optimal time to add a whole-home water softener. The plumbing is already exposed at the main supply, labor is mostly already on-site, and you'll protect your brand-new copper or PEX from the scale buildup that destroys plumbing systems in Oklahoma's hard water. Combined cost is typically $1,200–$1,800 less than doing the softener as a separate job later.

FAQ — Repiping in OKC

Call the family

A repipe is a significant investment, and we want you to make the right call. Free in-home assessment, detailed written quote, and a real conversation about whether repiping is the right move for your specific house. We'll never sell you a repipe you don't need.