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Septic System Service · OKC Metro

Septic system repair, installation, and pumping — full service.

Rural OKC-metro properties often rely on septic systems, and when they fail, the mess is unforgettable. We handle everything: pumping, repair, drain field work, tank replacement, and septic-to-sewer conversions. Honest quotes and real experience with Oklahoma soils.

Call (405) 446-2078 Get a free quote
Sewage backing up?

Stop all water use in the house immediately — running more water makes the backup worse. Don't flush, run laundry, or use showers. Call us. If sewage is actively coming into the house, that's an emergency dispatch.

How septic systems work

A septic system is a small on-site sewage treatment plant. Wastewater from your house flows through your drain system to the septic tank, where:

  1. Solids settle to the bottom of the tank, forming sludge
  2. Fats, oils, and grease float to the top, forming a scum layer
  3. Liquid effluent in the middle flows out to the drain field (also called leach field or absorption field)
  4. Drain field disperses effluent into the soil, where bacteria break down remaining contaminants and the water eventually re-enters the water table

The whole system depends on: adequate tank capacity, functioning baffles that direct flow correctly, healthy bacteria in the tank breaking down solids, and drain field soil capable of absorbing effluent.

Common septic problems and repairs

Tank pumping (routine maintenance)

Solids accumulate in the septic tank over years. If not pumped, they eventually flow into the drain field and clog it — a much more expensive problem to fix. For a typical family of four with a 1,000-1,500 gallon tank, pumping every 3-5 years is standard. Larger families or smaller tanks need more frequent service.

During pumping, we also inspect:

  • Tank baffle condition (the inlet and outlet baffles that direct flow)
  • Effluent filter condition (if installed)
  • Tank wall integrity (cracks, leaks)
  • Signs of drain field distress

Baffle repair or replacement

Septic tank baffles direct wastewater flow to prevent solids from escaping into the drain field. Older concrete baffles crack and fail over decades. When a baffle fails, solids can flow into the drain field and start clogging it. Replacement with modern plastic baffles is straightforward.

Effluent filter installation and cleaning

Modern septic tanks include a filter at the tank outlet that catches small solids that would otherwise flow to the drain field. These filters need cleaning every 1-2 years. Older tanks without effluent filters can have them retrofitted — highly recommended, and extends drain field life dramatically.

Drain field problems

Drain field failure is the most expensive septic problem. Signs include:

  • Sewage smell in the yard
  • Wet, spongy patches over the drain field
  • Unusually green or fast-growing grass over the drain field
  • Standing water or effluent visible on the surface
  • Slow drains throughout the house

Drain field remediation options depend on the cause:

  • Biomat buildup (biological clogging) — sometimes fixable with rest, aeration, or bacterial additives
  • Soil compaction — aeration of the drain field area
  • Root intrusion — remove the tree(s) causing the problem, mechanical root removal
  • Structural collapse — full drain field replacement
  • Undersized drain field (system built for smaller family than current) — expansion or replacement

Tank replacement

Old concrete tanks eventually crack and fail — usually after 30-40 years. Modern replacement tanks are polyethylene or fiberglass, lighter to install, and don't corrode. Replacement involves:

  • Pumping the existing tank
  • Excavating around the old tank
  • Removing the old tank (either whole or breaking up)
  • Installing new tank with proper bedding and cover
  • Reconnecting inlet from house and outlet to drain field
  • Backfilling and restoring the site
  • Health department inspection (required in Oklahoma)

New system installation

For homes without existing septic (new construction, or homes previously without utilities), we install complete new systems. This requires:

  • Site evaluation and soil percolation testing
  • System design sized to household needs and soil conditions
  • Oklahoma State Department of Health permit
  • Tank installation
  • Drain field installation to spec
  • Connection to house drain system
  • Final health department inspection

Septic-to-sewer conversion

As city sewer service expands into previously-rural areas, some Choctaw, Newcastle, Piedmont, and other outer-metro properties can convert from septic to city sewer. This is often mandatory when service becomes available.

Conversion involves:

  • Running a new sewer lateral from the house to the city sewer connection
  • Making the tap into the city main (coordinated with your municipality)
  • Abandoning the old septic system per state requirements (pump the tank, then either fill with sand and gravel or remove entirely)
  • Updating any house-side drain issues discovered during the work
  • Health department sign-off on abandonment
  • City inspection of new connection

Cost varies enormously with distance to the city connection and what's above the run (driveway, mature trees, landscaping). Trenchless boring can often minimize disruption for longer runs.

What you should do (and not do) to protect your septic system

Do:

  • Pump the tank every 3-5 years for a typical family
  • Keep records of pumping dates for real estate transactions
  • Spread out water use during high-consumption periods (don't run laundry, dishes, and showers simultaneously)
  • Fix leaking fixtures promptly — extra water burdens the drain field
  • Divert roof drainage away from the drain field
  • Know where your tank and drain field are located
  • Have an effluent filter installed if you don't already have one

Don't:

  • Flush wipes, feminine hygiene products, paper towels, or diapers
  • Pour grease, cooking oil, paint, or harsh chemicals down drains
  • Use excessive antibacterial products (they kill beneficial tank bacteria)
  • Park vehicles or heavy equipment over the drain field
  • Plant trees or deep-rooted shrubs over or near the drain field
  • Build structures, install pools, or pave over septic components
  • Skip pumping to save money — it always costs more later

Common questions

For a typical family of four with a standard 1,000-1,500 gallon tank, every 3-5 years is the general recommendation. Larger households or smaller tanks need more frequent pumping. Signs you're overdue: slow drains throughout the house, sewage smell in the yard, wet or spongy areas above the drain field, or gurgling sounds from drains. We pump and inspect in the same visit.

Most common causes: neglecting pumping (solids build up and eventually flow into the drain field, clogging it permanently), non-septic-safe items flushed down (wipes, feminine hygiene products, grease, harsh chemicals), tree roots invading the drain field or tank, drain field saturation from too much water use, and simple age — septic systems typically last 20-40 years.

Do go down: human waste, toilet paper, and greywater from sinks and showers. Do NOT go down: wipes (even 'flushable' ones), feminine hygiene products, paper towels, grease and cooking oil, harsh chemicals (drain cleaners, paint thinners), antibacterial products in large quantities (they kill the beneficial bacteria in the tank). Also limit water use during periods of heavy rain — a saturated drain field can back up.

Slow drains throughout the house that don't respond to normal drain cleaning. Sewage backup into the lowest drains (basement floor drains, tub drains). Sewage smell in the yard or basement. Wet, spongy, or unusually green patches of grass over the drain field. Standing water or effluent visible on the drain field surface. Any of these signals a septic problem — call before it becomes a full backup.

If city sewer is available at your property, yes — and we handle the conversion. It involves running a new sewer line from the house to the city connection, abandoning the old septic system (pumping and either filling with sand or removing), and often improving your home's drain system to modern standards. Cost depends heavily on distance from the connection and what's between (concrete, mature trees, etc.).

Pumping just empties the tank of accumulated solids — routine maintenance every 3-5 years. Septic repair involves fixing problems: broken tank baffles, cracked tank walls, drain field failures, distribution box issues, or full system replacement. Pumping doesn't fix underlying problems; it just resets the timer. Our septic repair covers everything from small component fixes to full system replacement.

Call the family

Septic problems don't get better with time. Whether you need routine pumping, a drain field repaired, a tank replaced, or want to convert to city sewer — we handle it all. Give us a call.

Call (405) 446-2078 Get a free quote

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