Turn off the water at the shut-off valve behind the toilet (small oval valve on the wall or floor, turn clockwise). If it doesn't shut off, remove the tank lid and push the flapper down to stop water from entering the bowl. Then call us. Don't keep flushing.
The most common toilet problems we fix
Running toilet (constant or intermittent)
You hear the toilet refilling every few minutes even when nobody's flushed. Or you find water quietly running down inside the bowl. The three usual suspects:
- Worn flapper — the rubber seal at the bottom of the tank has hardened or warped and no longer seals properly. Water leaks past it into the bowl, triggering the fill valve to refill. Cheap fix, huge water-bill savings.
- Fill valve issues — the mechanism that refills the tank has failed to shut off completely, or is mis-adjusted. Modern fill valves (Fluidmaster 400A is the standard) are inexpensive and reliable replacements.
- Chain problems — the chain between the flush lever and flapper is either tangled (keeping the flapper open) or too tight (preventing it from sealing).
A running toilet can waste 200+ gallons per day. Fixing it is one of the highest-value 30-minute jobs we do.
Leak at the base of the toilet
You notice water pooling on the floor around the base of the toilet — sometimes only after a flush, sometimes constantly. Almost always caused by a failed wax ring (the seal between the toilet and the drain flange in the floor).
This needs prompt repair. Unaddressed base leaks damage subfloor, and if the toilet is over a floor with anything below (bathroom over kitchen, for example), the damage can spread. The repair involves pulling the toilet, cleaning the flange, installing a new wax ring, and often replacing the closet flange if it's damaged too (common in older homes).
Slow or incomplete flush
Toilet flushes but weakly — takes multiple flushes to clear waste, or water level drops but bowl doesn't fully empty. Causes:
- Clogged rim jets — mineral buildup from hard water clogs the small holes under the toilet rim, reducing flush water flow. Cleaning with vinegar or a stiff wire often works.
- Insufficient tank water level — the fill valve is stopping too early. Adjustable.
- Partial clog in the trap or drain — the toilet's internal trap or the drain line has a partial obstruction slowing flow.
- Vent stack blockage — if the toilet gurgles or drains slowly, the vent stack on your roof may be blocked (common with tree debris or bird nests).
Loose or wobbly toilet
The toilet rocks when you sit on it. This is dangerous — it stresses the wax ring seal and often means the closet flange is cracked or the bolts are corroded. Ignoring it leads to a base leak. Straightforward repair: stabilize the toilet with new bolts, shims if needed, and often a new wax ring while we're at it.
Overflowing toilet
Bowl fills to the top and starts overflowing during a flush. Almost always a clog in the toilet trap or drain line. Steps:
- Shut off water at the valve behind the toilet
- Try a good-quality flanged toilet plunger (not a cheap sink plunger)
- If plunging doesn't work, we can auger the toilet — a toilet-specific auger reaches into the trap without scratching the porcelain
- If that doesn't clear it, the clog is deeper in the drain — we'll snake the line
Toilet installation and replacement
When replacement makes sense
- The toilet is 15+ years old and needs frequent repairs
- It uses more than 1.6 gallons per flush (pre-1994 models) — you're paying for water you don't need
- There are visible cracks in the porcelain (bowl or tank)
- You want a comfort-height seat (17-18" vs standard 15") — makes a big difference for taller people or aging homeowners
- You're remodeling and want a specific style, brand, or wall-mount design
What we install
For most replacements, we recommend:
- Two-piece design — easier to install and service than one-piece models
- 1.28 gallons per flush (GPF) — WaterSense certified, uses 20% less water than the 1.6 GPF standard, still flushes reliably
- Comfort height (17-18") — more comfortable for adults, essential for aging in place
- Elongated bowl — more comfortable than round; standard for modern installs
Brands we typically install
- Kohler — reliable, wide parts availability, good mid-range and premium options
- Toto — arguably the best-flushing toilets on the market, premium price
- American Standard — budget-friendly, reliable, easy to service
Brands we're cautious about: extreme-budget imports from big-box stores. They flush poorly, and parts availability for repairs 5-10 years down the road is often nonexistent.
What's included in a toilet install
- New toilet (if we supply)
- New wax ring or wax-free seal
- New toilet bolts and caps
- New water supply line (braided stainless steel)
- Removal and disposal of old toilet
- Flange inspection and replacement if needed
- Level and stabilization
- Test flush and leak check
Common questions
As a rough rule: if the toilet is under 15 years old and the issue is a specific component (fill valve, flapper, flush lever, wax ring), repair. If it's over 15 years old, uses more than 1.6 gallons per flush, has visible cracks, or has needed multiple repairs recently, replacement often makes more sense — modern toilets flush better with far less water.
The three most common causes: a worn flapper (the rubber seal at the bottom of the tank), a mis-adjusted or failed fill valve (the mechanism that refills the tank), or a chain that's tangled or too tight. All three are fixable in under an hour. If yours has run continuously for weeks or months, you may also be looking at a substantial water bill impact — a running toilet can waste 200+ gallons per day.
Almost always a failed wax ring — the seal between the toilet and the drain flange in the floor. When it fails, water seeps out with each flush. This needs prompt repair because unaddressed leaks damage subfloor and can lead to bigger problems. Fix involves pulling the toilet, replacing the wax ring, and often the closet flange if that's also damaged.
For most homes, a two-piece toilet with a 1.28 gallon-per-flush (GPF) rating and a comfort-height seat (17-18 inches) is the sweet spot — reliable, water-efficient, comfortable, and reasonably-priced. Skyler or Kohler are our default recommendations. Wall-mounted or one-piece toilets look better but cost more and are harder to service. Dual-flush systems save a bit more water but have more moving parts to fail.
It's doable for someone comfortable with basic plumbing — the toilet itself is straightforward. The failure points are usually the wax ring seal (leaks if not seated correctly) and the water supply connection (leaks if over-tightened). If you get either wrong, you have a slow leak that damages your floor over months. When we install, we also check the closet flange condition (often needs replacement on older homes), verify shut-off valve function, and adjust the tank fill level correctly.
The porcelain itself lasts essentially forever (barring impact damage). Internal components — flappers, fill valves, chains — typically need replacement every 5-10 years. Wax rings can last 15-25 years if undisturbed but often fail earlier. If you're replacing components more than every 3-5 years, the internal parts have degraded to the point that a full toilet replacement is often more cost-effective than continued repair.
Call the family
Toilet problems don't wait for business hours. Same-day service across the OKC metro, honest quotes, and quality work. Give us a call.